Patrons please let me know what features you want in the slicer . We just added individual PA control for every accel value and better variable layer height control plus a few smaller tweaks. Most stuff will eventually go to Super Slicer as well but some stuff will be staying as A3dp exclusive. Especially the profiles for Modix and Troodon and then toolchanger and index support along with Stablebot support for LukeLabs machines
We Can now adjust by percentage or absolute PA for diff types of extrusion which is super important . This also make handling things like two hotends easy to to do without having to write macros.
A3DP is happy to introduce our latest PiCam Mount for the Troodon!
It still mounts in the front-right corner as with the one we recommended before.
For assembly, start by plugging in the pi cable into the Pi Cam, place the cam in the red piece (as pictured above) then snap the yellow piece on. Next you will need a M3x20mm bolt to assemble the gray bottom mount to the yellow back plate. Finally, you will need a M4x12mm bolt and a 3030 hammer/ or t-nut for mounting to the front-right extrusion on your Troodon.
Please see the attached screen shot for slicer print orientation. I would suggest 0.16-0.2mm layers, ABS material for easier breakaway supports. The rear face may require some light sanding.
This solution came about because I have yet to find a nice clean, customizable solution for storing E3D v6 style nozzles. That is a thing of the past. I would like to introduce our Nozzle Storage Box.
The intention here is that the Nozzle Insert is customizable for your application. It prints with no support in 4 pieces. We are providing all of the STL files, F3D and a STEP file for those who prefer to customize their box further.
I wanted to take a few minutes to upload what Rob and I are calling the “Ultimate” Orbiter. Just so everyone knows, this design I did completely from the ground up making dozens of minute modifications for easier FDM-ability thus it is completely our own intellectual property.
The special sauce that gives our design a huge advantage over the original Orbiter designed by Lorincz are as follows:
The clearances, have been dramatically improved
Perfect BMG alignment, including along the spider gear shaft, the latch detent clearances in X & Y directions
100% contrainted filament path from entry to nozzle
Can be professionally SLS or MJF printed (We know, we’ve done it =))
Much easier to FDM print! (HINT HINT: We suggest 20-30 degrees of tilt, front bearing facing toward the bed plate)
Can be directly mounted to a stock Troodon or one with the A3DP Gantry upgrade parts
There are two versions of the housing:
1.) 14x14mm Bearings, this will match up for those that bought the “Formbot Troodon DDE Upgrade” kit from Jake/Tom/Peter on Cults3D.
As many of you know their is not to many choices for Tungsten Carbide nozzles , especially in Volcano size . So A3dp now is carrying our own line of nozzles along side the standard Takoto brass nozzles . I also am thinking of getting standard size Tungsten Carbide nozzles made to but am not sure if the market needs it since those tend to be easier to source. Anyway I used one of them in my recent 1023mms live stream and also at 600mms for the fox benchy . I will be doing a comparison between a few different nozzles and want to get some real data on the actual limits since it seems you can flow a lot more on a .4 than people think.
Per a request from Facebook, I am sharing the redux I did on the SailFin extruder (OG design credit to CroXY3D)
I am leaving a link to the shared files here where you can access them as well as an Exploded Assy View video for assembly, follow the same instructions recommended for the Original SailFin.
I have been running this for about 25hr, CF & GF filaments have been fine as has ASA/ABS, I have yet to do flexibles but I would expect the same great performance as our A3DP Orbiter as it has the same fully constrained filament path.
If y’all have any feedback, let me know on Facebook.
As many know the hosting company i was using somehow lost all their data and this included backups and so on. Now i am using amazon servers and doing offline backups even though everyone claims the cloud is safe “apparently not for me ” Anyway point is Me JAke and Theodore are going to try and fix all the broken posts over the next week.
This is a guide for printing a turnkey mount for an ElecLabs 5″ Klipper Screen, this is not a full guide for installing the mount. That being said, here is a link to the Klipper Screen documentation. Big shout out to those guys, this screens rocks.
Start by removing front Black acrylic panel with existing PanelDue and remove 4 Phillips M3 bolts, save the 4x Phillips M3 bolts for later
Make sure you have tested your Raspi Klipper Screen for functionality, if you plug in the DSI cable and nothing happens, you likely have a Type-A cable (Pins on side 1 at one end, Pins on side 2 at other end) but this screen needs a Type-B DSI cable. I simply took a normal Raspi Cam cable, clipped off the blue tag (heat gun to remove and super glue on opposite side) then took some sand paper to expose the pins on the opposite side. If that is too much work for you, just search type B DSI on the Google Machine and purchase one.
When you install the screen into this mount, side it in at an angle with the USB port nested in the cutout.
Then lineup the top mounting holes and screw in 2 of the longer M2.5 Phillips bolts provided in the kit.
Next, gently slide the partial assembly through the backside of the front black acrylic. Re-install 4x M3 Phillips bolts
Now slide the bottom piece on and align the holes and install the last two long M2.5 Phillips bolts from the kit.
Lastly, there are two holes, at an angle, that are made for M3x14mm bolts, this will securely hold the two halves together.
The 2 holes on either side of the mount are for you to design & mount your own tool/flashlight/screwdriver/etc mounts…
Finally mount the PI stand off and RaspberryPi onto the mounting studs on the back of screen & plug it in.
If you sanded your cable (or bought the correct one) then it will power up, if not nothing will happen.
Proceed with running the install commands (from above links) and you should be good to go.
Rather than charging for this before you try it, I would rather use this as an Honor System. I’m more concerned with growth than money but money is a necesarry evil for coninued development. If you found it useful and would like to see more like it, please consider donating to the designer with the “Tip the Designer” button below:
Future Projects I am considering:
Troodon Heated Chamber Mod
9mm Z Belt Conversion
Actively Heated Above Mounted Filament Drying Box
Umbilical Mounts for Troodon Cable Chain alternative
Other Top Secret Awesomeness we’re not quite ready to share yet =)
UPDATE: had an issue with the parts falling over when printed upright, I added some “forced” supports in the 3D CAD model to prevent this and it works. Just be sure to use the .3MF file attached below and print with a large brim and speed of 80mm/s. They turned out very nice now.
Have you ever wished that your Troodon door would stay open rather than slamming you in the elbow when your reaching in to do something to the machine? OR wanted to have a quick way to remove the door with our messing with the door alignment and/or not need any tools to take the door off?
Today is your lucky day!
I have composed 2 different version of this hinge, but let me explain how it works first.
I designed this to work so the upgrade gives you a “drilling guide” for the 8x new holes you will drill in the acrylic panels. Don’t worry it’s easy, all you need is: 4pc printed hinges, a 5mm (or 13/64) drill bit, and a drill
Meant to utilize existing hardware (or if you opt for the shoulder bolt version, all you need is the 2x M4x5MM OD x 25mm Long bolts)
Can be used upright (bolt inserts from top) or upside down (bolt threads in from bottom) the latter requires drilling out the top piece but will allow you to have a “tool free” removal of your door.
TPU tether prevents you from losing it when you take the door off.
Remove stock hinges/bolts
Set aside the 8-pairs of M5 Shoulder bolts & T-Nuts for later
Lay acrylic door & strip on a table with something under them you don’t mind a drill bit biting into (helps prevent acrylic from “breaking out” when you finish drilling through)
Place hinges in the now empty stock holes & SLOWLY drill, like as slow as you can make your drill go
Once holes are drilled, reassemble as before but put the TPU insert in like you see in the animation below, the holes are such that the bolts should only fit in one end of the TPU tether.
So i wanted to show the new version of the gantry carriage. The rest of the gantry is the same except for slight tweak that applies to the 300 only . I ordered 20 more of the tha carriage piece encase anyone wants to convert to the new modular design. This adds another way to mount the mosquito and also the mosquito magnum plus now shoudl be possible “haven’t been able to test in real life yet ” Also adds takoto compatibility and makes it possible to quick-change the hotend and extruder. The best part of this is i plan on having future upgrades available that we can simply swap the plate with 2 bolts and then also have the chance to try and make a toolchange setup without having t5o redo anything else . Theodore has also asked me to make a 9mm belt version so i had already drawn it up and i will make a small amount of 9mm belt setups for those that want to run large servos or something where we may see an advantage. I will test that soon though. Will be doing a giveaway as well
This is a 3d view that can be exploded showing the install.
password is a3dp
This is all needed files for the install https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Z4x9JJPxMVS33Lny1YkzpYVabQZxyF_G?usp=sharin
First step is to make sure you have all the parts needed for the install including stls from the other post.
M5 allen key for removing the bed “the kit that came with the printer includes all allens needed
M3,M2.5,M2,M1.5 allen keys a ratchet can be handy
6mm and 7mm socket
Remove the front and side lower panels and it is helpful to remove the acrylic panels to. Then remove the black acrylic surround that is around the bed. Be mindful to remove the bracket that holds the z cable chain otherwise you will have a very hard time removing the surround
Next remove the bed by removing the 4 m5 allen bolts . alternatively you can place the printer on its side and remove the bottom
The first thing is to make sure that you have plenty of time and have printed all needed parts which is the
2 retainer pieces
Cable chain “if was preorder”
Orbiter housing from gdrive to convert the extruder. “Install the new orbiter first to test , it will work with the old setup so make sure you have good tolerances first.
Part cooler “5015 setup in the gdrive ” or you can run berd air with the included hotend fan mount .
Y endstop trigger “y endstop mount mechanical”
Zip ties or clips printed
Next is required tools and required parts
Allen keys that came with the printer or any metric set that goes from 1m m to 4mm should do .
Sand paper or abrasive cloth to tolerance the pins “you want them to be snug with the idlers ,if you need them to be looser i can send ones that are undersized “
Dragon or mosquito hotend , Next revision will support Takoto hotends “best thing if need highest flow or print with many abrasives nonstop”
recommended if have a 300 to trim rail to 355 mm but not required some machines tighter than others . Can use an abrasive cutoff disc or a Dremel to cut. Can choose to make slots longer instead but recommend cutting rail . 400 does not need any cutting as their is full range on the 400 with the standard length rail
If running mosquito then need to use the mosquito fan adapter to mount the 25mm slice fan and need to use the slice fan.
The first thing i recommend to do is the front three pieces which give the largest gain. That is the carriage and the x to y mounts. You will need to act like doing a dde install and open the cable chain up including the Z chain.
Remove the back bracket that holds the z chain from moving and also prevents the bed surround from lifting. Then remove the 4 screws that hold the bed surround down and remove the bed surround to make your life easier.
Now remove z links so that the 400 has approx 31 to 32 and the 300 has 23 to 24 . then pull any slack out of the cables making sure not to stretch or disconnect anything below . You may need to cut zip ties. At this point remove the xy cable chain and make a 19 link length for the 400 and the 300 can be 16 to 19 links as their is more slack . This will be the y chain unless using new. use the old t nuts to mount the cable chain to the y extrusion and then leave for now
At this time remove the 4 screws on the bottom of each guide on the y extrusions to drop the old x bar away. Now mount the new x to y joints almost finger tight . Then take the double t nut plates and use them to mount the rail still not tight . now mount the x to y joint that say a3dp on it and mount he carriage to the guide. At this point you can lift up on the rail a little and tighten the inner bolts to the tnut plate hand tight then release the rail and now tighten the outer bolts to the t nut plate firm but not crazy , go back and do the same for the first set and now move gantry forward and back and then tighten the bolts holding the x to y arms to the y rails.
Now you can mount the carriage cable chain mount and if you printed a spar mount that as well . You can now also run the cable chain to the carriage and mount the loose ends of the both cable chains to their respective locations.
Remove the extra idler from the front tensioner brackets and run the belt around the z belts as shown in the pictures above . Install the idlers on the new arms using the stock spacer underneath and nothing above. At this point attach belts to the carriage as it is much easier before hotend is installed.
Mount the y endstop mount trigger and mount your x endstop to the a3dp x to y cable chain mount. You can now install the hotend ,fans and extruder.
I will be completing a video shortly and will refine this with feedback but wanted to get a basic idea of what to do written down as a starting point so feel free to ask questions and i will edit this accordingly.
The motor mounts are more difficult but not by much . You need to setup the pins ahead of time so sand the pins or some said to use a freezer and place the idlers on the pins as shown in the pics. Now remove the old belt retainer clips and the old rear brackets. You need to install the 1mm spacers on the bottom of the extrusions in-between them and the new brackets. You will mount the motor with the button head screws supplied 3 to a motor. You need to take care not to lose the old hardware. ” seems some newer printers have thicker stock washers I am looking for a link if anyone wants to get proper replacements for the rear stack” Don’t run the belt until the last step for this install as it is much easier to just snake it through and it helps to remove rear panel so you disconnect power and unplug the spade connectors from t he block on the back . You can do this without removing the back panel and just removing the sides instead. Use the longer m5 bolts to replace the stock 12mm bolts that go thought the z mounts and the mounts as they are to short for stock let alone an additional mm for the new spacer. Install spacers under the stock front mounts, Install center t nut bolts loosely and run gantry forward and back then tighten them to avoid racking. Now you may run belts and make sure the tensioner set screws in front are out all the way. Take care to have some tension on belts but not much and then clamp with zip ties or printed retainers. Now you may tension taking care to keep gantry square with tension being equal. Refer to video on belt tension to understand if confused.