Per a request from Facebook, I am sharing the redux I did on the SailFin extruder (OG design credit to CroXY3D)
I am leaving a link to the shared files here where you can access them as well as an Exploded Assy View video for assembly, follow the same instructions recommended for the Original SailFin.
I have been running this for about 25hr, CF & GF filaments have been fine as has ASA/ABS, I have yet to do flexibles but I would expect the same great performance as our A3DP Orbiter as it has the same fully constrained filament path.
If y’all have any feedback, let me know on Facebook.
This is the A3DP Troodon 300 CAD Model, it is special sharing version of the model, but is not downloadable.
Inside of the viewer window you can do quite alot but here are some highlights of the most important:
1.) Explode the model (3 Planes Icon)
2.) Measure parts for real-world comparisons (Ruler Icon)
3.) Hide & Isolate Parts / Sub-assemblies to see just what you want
Lastly, I also took the time to rename all of the parts in the design tree (Top-Left corner, look for a Cube & Click on it)
Password to access it is: a3dp <– all lowercase
This is a guide for printing a turnkey mount for an ElecLabs 5″ Klipper Screen, this is not a full guide for installing the mount. That being said, here is a link to the Klipper Screen documentation. Big shout out to those guys, this screens rocks.
- 0.10-0.20 Layer Height
- 3 perimeters
- Support: Build Plate + For Support Enforcers
- See .3MF file so you can simply import my supports & print settings (Speed Conservatively set to 80mm/s, DDE req’d)
- Print with the Text facing Down & Add a Brim (Not Pictured)
- Start by removing front Black acrylic panel with existing PanelDue and remove 4 Phillips M3 bolts, save the 4x Phillips M3 bolts for later
- Make sure you have tested your Raspi Klipper Screen for functionality, if you plug in the DSI cable and nothing happens, you likely have a Type-A cable (Pins on side 1 at one end, Pins on side 2 at other end) but this screen needs a Type-B DSI cable. I simply took a normal Raspi Cam cable, clipped off the blue tag (heat gun to remove and super glue on opposite side) then took some sand paper to expose the pins on the opposite side. If that is too much work for you, just search type B DSI on the Google Machine and purchase one.
- When you install the screen into this mount, side it in at an angle with the USB port nested in the cutout.
- Then lineup the top mounting holes and screw in 2 of the longer M2.5 Phillips bolts provided in the kit.
- Next, gently slide the partial assembly through the backside of the front black acrylic. Re-install 4x M3 Phillips bolts
- Now slide the bottom piece on and align the holes and install the last two long M2.5 Phillips bolts from the kit.
- Lastly, there are two holes, at an angle, that are made for M3x14mm bolts, this will securely hold the two halves together.
- The 2 holes on either side of the mount are for you to design & mount your own tool/flashlight/screwdriver/etc mounts…
- Finally mount the PI stand off and RaspberryPi onto the mounting studs on the back of screen & plug it in.
- If you sanded your cable (or bought the correct one) then it will power up, if not nothing will happen.
- Proceed with running the install commands (from above links) and you should be good to go.
Rather than charging for this before you try it, I would rather use this as an Honor System. I’m more concerned with growth than money but money is a necesarry evil for coninued development. If you found it useful and would like to see more like it, please consider donating to the designer with the “Tip the Designer” button below:
Future Projects I am considering:
- Troodon Heated Chamber Mod
- 9mm Z Belt Conversion
- Actively Heated Above Mounted Filament Drying Box
- Umbilical Mounts for Troodon Cable Chain alternative
- Other Top Secret Awesomeness we’re not quite ready to share yet =)
UPDATE: had an issue with the parts falling over when printed upright, I added some “forced” supports in the 3D CAD model to prevent this and it works. Just be sure to use the .3MF file attached below and print with a large brim and speed of 80mm/s. They turned out very nice now.
Have you ever wished that your Troodon door would stay open rather than slamming you in the elbow when your reaching in to do something to the machine? OR wanted to have a quick way to remove the door with our messing with the door alignment and/or not need any tools to take the door off?
Today is your lucky day!
I have composed 2 different version of this hinge, but let me explain how it works first.
- I designed this to work so the upgrade gives you a “drilling guide” for the 8x new holes you will drill in the acrylic panels. Don’t worry it’s easy, all you need is: 4pc printed hinges, a 5mm (or 13/64) drill bit, and a drill
- Meant to utilize existing hardware (or if you opt for the shoulder bolt version, all you need is the 2x M4x5MM OD x 25mm Long bolts)
- <20min install
- Can be used upright (bolt inserts from top) or upside down (bolt threads in from bottom) the latter requires drilling out the top piece but will allow you to have a “tool free” removal of your door.
- TPU tether prevents you from losing it when you take the door off.
- Remove stock hinges/bolts
- Set aside the 8-pairs of M5 Shoulder bolts & T-Nuts for later
- Lay acrylic door & strip on a table with something under them you don’t mind a drill bit biting into (helps prevent acrylic from “breaking out” when you finish drilling through)
- Place hinges in the now empty stock holes & SLOWLY drill, like as slow as you can make your drill go
- Once holes are drilled, reassemble as before but put the TPU insert in like you see in the animation below, the holes are such that the bolts should only fit in one end of the TPU tether.
- Drink a beer, you are done! 🙂
- Print upright for maximum strength, Laying down will be okay but only if using PETG/PCTG/Nylon
- Material: ABS, PETG/PCTG, Nylon recommended
- Layers: 0.1-0.2mm
- Support the plug with Support Enforcers
- Support the Upper Hinge with Support Enforcers
I wanted to take a few minutes to upload what Rob and I are calling the “Ultimate” Orbiter. Just so everyone knows, this design I did completely from the ground up making dozens of minute modifications for easier FDM-ability thus it is completely our own intellectual property.
The special sauce that gives our design a huge advantage over the original Orbiter designed by Lorincz are as follows:
- The clearances, have been dramatically improved
- Perfect BMG alignment, including along the spider gear shaft, the latch detent clearances in X & Y directions
- 100% contrainted filament path from entry to nozzle
- Can be professionally SLS or MJF printed (We know, we’ve done it =))
- Much easier to FDM print! (HINT HINT: We suggest 20-30 degrees of tilt, front bearing facing toward the bed plate)
- Can be directly mounted to a stock Troodon or one with the A3DP Gantry upgrade parts
There are two versions of the housing:
1.) 14x14mm Bearings, this will match up for those that bought the “Formbot Troodon DDE Upgrade” kit from Jake/Tom/Peter on Cults3D.
2.) 14x16mm Bearings, this matches the “OEM” Formbot/Vivedino DDE kit that can be purchased or came installed on your Troodon.
Files for 14×16 Version will be coming soon…. Hang in there =)
Rob & Jake both have hundreds of hours testing this new orbiter and we are ready for you to give it a shot for yourself
If you have any question, please drop us a line in the comments!
A3DP is happy to introduce our latest PiCam Mount for the Troodon!
It still mounts in the front-right corner as with the one we recommended before.
For assembly, start by plugging in the pi cable into the Pi Cam, place the cam in the red piece (as pictured above) then snap the yellow piece on. Next you will need a M3x20mm bolt to assemble the gray bottom mount to the yellow back plate. Finally, you will need a M4x12mm bolt and a 3030 hammer/ or t-nut for mounting to the front-right extrusion on your Troodon.
Please see the attached screen shot for slicer print orientation. I would suggest 0.16-0.2mm layers, ABS material for easier breakaway supports. The rear face may require some light sanding.
CAD & STL Files
Inspired by the following projects:
Front housing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4695691
Back cover: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2746186
This solution came about because I have yet to find a nice clean, customizable solution for storing E3D v6 style nozzles. That is a thing of the past. I would like to introduce our Nozzle Storage Box.
The intention here is that the Nozzle Insert is customizable for your application. It prints with no support in 4 pieces. We are providing all of the STL files, F3D and a STEP file for those who prefer to customize their box further.
Suggested Print Settings:
- 0.2mm Layers
- 0.4mm Nozzle
- No Supports needed
- Top & Bottom box piece print on largest face
- Trudie mount prints on the face with the 2 slots
Additional Needed Parts
- 2x M3x10+ mm bolts to secure lid to the base