I can now proudly say that A3dp has a complete solution for upgrading to servos on a 3d printer. This tuning software allows you to tweak the current and position loop or set it to auto-tune. You can also view real-time feedback from the encoder and controller. Also you are able to access anti vibration loops with phase shifting so if you have large equipment that has resonance or an imbalanced shaft it can be corrected in software.
These motors are able to expose the limits in most control boards which is now pushing others to create a custom version of Klipper that increases possible step rate by many orders of magnitude. This will allow us to slowly start adding more features and higher levels of performance on top of what we can already achieve . As an example we can currently run the motors at 8192 steps per rotation “the motors technically can run whatever you want but their would be little reason to go above 16384 since that is the hardware resolution of the encoder” if we want extreme quality or 4096 if we want to go over a meter per second. At 8192 we are accurate to .00488 of a mm with a 20t pulley and .0039 with a 16t or at 4096 both pulley sizes get us under .01 compared to a .9 stepper getting us .1mm with a 20t “if we pretend that their is 0 lag and we have 0 resistance in the system ”
You may need to install net Framework 3.5 which you can press windows key then type add or remove windows features and make sure net framework 3.5 is selected .
Anyone that orders 100 dollars or more of filament will get a free roll of PLA. This will be in addition to a coupon that will run from Friday morning until Monday for 15 percent off sitewide “excluding servos that are already reduced to 200 dollars for black Friday “.
Patrons that order this weekend will also get a free gift depending on order size and stock . Gifts range from mouse pads and bags to t shirts and bed adhesive .
I will add more info over the next few days but this shows how to setup the Euclid also in the Troodon case with an additional endstop on the 6 pin header. The double connection is required to allow us to be able to home with having an additional physical z endstop. This will allow the Euclid to replace a Bltouch without any additional endstops.
Patrons please let me know what features you want in the slicer . We just added individual PA control for every accel value and better variable layer height control plus a few smaller tweaks. Most stuff will eventually go to Super Slicer as well but some stuff will be staying as A3dp exclusive. Especially the profiles for Modix and Troodon and then toolchanger and index support along with Stablebot support for LukeLabs machines
We Can now adjust by percentage or absolute PA for diff types of extrusion which is super important . This also make handling things like two hotends easy to to do without having to write macros.
This solution came about because I have yet to find a nice clean, customizable solution for storing E3D v6 style nozzles. That is a thing of the past. I would like to introduce our Nozzle Storage Box.
The intention here is that the Nozzle Insert is customizable for your application. It prints with no support in 4 pieces. We are providing all of the STL files, F3D and a STEP file for those who prefer to customize their box further.
A3DP is happy to introduce our latest PiCam Mount for the Troodon!
It still mounts in the front-right corner as with the one we recommended before.
For assembly, start by plugging in the pi cable into the Pi Cam, place the cam in the red piece (as pictured above) then snap the yellow piece on. Next you will need a M3x20mm bolt to assemble the gray bottom mount to the yellow back plate. Finally, you will need a M4x12mm bolt and a 3030 hammer/ or t-nut for mounting to the front-right extrusion on your Troodon.
Please see the attached screen shot for slicer print orientation. I would suggest 0.16-0.2mm layers, ABS material for easier breakaway supports. The rear face may require some light sanding.
I wanted to take a few minutes to upload what Rob and I are calling the “Ultimate” Orbiter. Just so everyone knows, this design I did completely from the ground up making dozens of minute modifications for easier FDM-ability thus it is completely our own intellectual property.
The special sauce that gives our design a huge advantage over the original Orbiter designed by Lorincz are as follows:
The clearances, have been dramatically improved
Perfect BMG alignment, including along the spider gear shaft, the latch detent clearances in X & Y directions
100% contrainted filament path from entry to nozzle
Can be professionally SLS or MJF printed (We know, we’ve done it =))
Much easier to FDM print! (HINT HINT: We suggest 20-30 degrees of tilt, front bearing facing toward the bed plate)
Can be directly mounted to a stock Troodon or one with the A3DP Gantry upgrade parts
There are two versions of the housing:
1.) 14x14mm Bearings, this will match up for those that bought the “Formbot Troodon DDE Upgrade” kit from Jake/Tom/Peter on Cults3D.
As many of you know their is not to many choices for Tungsten Carbide nozzles , especially in Volcano size . So A3dp now is carrying our own line of nozzles along side the standard Takoto brass nozzles . I also am thinking of getting standard size Tungsten Carbide nozzles made to but am not sure if the market needs it since those tend to be easier to source. Anyway I used one of them in my recent 1023mms live stream and also at 600mms for the fox benchy . I will be doing a comparison between a few different nozzles and want to get some real data on the actual limits since it seems you can flow a lot more on a .4 than people think.
Per a request from Facebook, I am sharing the redux I did on the SailFin extruder (OG design credit to CroXY3D)
I am leaving a link to the shared files here where you can access them as well as an Exploded Assy View video for assembly, follow the same instructions recommended for the Original SailFin.
I have been running this for about 25hr, CF & GF filaments have been fine as has ASA/ABS, I have yet to do flexibles but I would expect the same great performance as our A3DP Orbiter as it has the same fully constrained filament path.
If y’all have any feedback, let me know on Facebook.
As many know the hosting company i was using somehow lost all their data and this included backups and so on. Now i am using amazon servers and doing offline backups even though everyone claims the cloud is safe “apparently not for me ” Anyway point is Me JAke and Theodore are going to try and fix all the broken posts over the next week.
Ill start this with saying that if anyone has info on this please come forward as their seems to be very few resources and they are all cryptic. Anyway i have found all the trinamic whitepapers to be very helpful and over the past year hae tested and experimented to the point where i feel i have a decent grasp on how this works.
This is a guide for printing a turnkey mount for an ElecLabs 5″ Klipper Screen, this is not a full guide for installing the mount. That being said, here is a link to the Klipper Screen documentation. Big shout out to those guys, this screens rocks.
Start by removing front Black acrylic panel with existing PanelDue and remove 4 Phillips M3 bolts, save the 4x Phillips M3 bolts for later
Make sure you have tested your Raspi Klipper Screen for functionality, if you plug in the DSI cable and nothing happens, you likely have a Type-A cable (Pins on side 1 at one end, Pins on side 2 at other end) but this screen needs a Type-B DSI cable. I simply took a normal Raspi Cam cable, clipped off the blue tag (heat gun to remove and super glue on opposite side) then took some sand paper to expose the pins on the opposite side. If that is too much work for you, just search type B DSI on the Google Machine and purchase one.
When you install the screen into this mount, side it in at an angle with the USB port nested in the cutout.
Then lineup the top mounting holes and screw in 2 of the longer M2.5 Phillips bolts provided in the kit.
Next, gently slide the partial assembly through the backside of the front black acrylic. Re-install 4x M3 Phillips bolts
Now slide the bottom piece on and align the holes and install the last two long M2.5 Phillips bolts from the kit.
Lastly, there are two holes, at an angle, that are made for M3x14mm bolts, this will securely hold the two halves together.
The 2 holes on either side of the mount are for you to design & mount your own tool/flashlight/screwdriver/etc mounts…
Finally mount the PI stand off and RaspberryPi onto the mounting studs on the back of screen & plug it in.
If you sanded your cable (or bought the correct one) then it will power up, if not nothing will happen.
Proceed with running the install commands (from above links) and you should be good to go.
Rather than charging for this before you try it, I would rather use this as an Honor System. I’m more concerned with growth than money but money is a necesarry evil for coninued development. If you found it useful and would like to see more like it, please consider donating to the designer with the “Tip the Designer” button below:
Future Projects I am considering:
Troodon Heated Chamber Mod
9mm Z Belt Conversion
Actively Heated Above Mounted Filament Drying Box
Umbilical Mounts for Troodon Cable Chain alternative
Other Top Secret Awesomeness we’re not quite ready to share yet =)
UPDATE: had an issue with the parts falling over when printed upright, I added some “forced” supports in the 3D CAD model to prevent this and it works. Just be sure to use the .3MF file attached below and print with a large brim and speed of 80mm/s. They turned out very nice now.
Have you ever wished that your Troodon door would stay open rather than slamming you in the elbow when your reaching in to do something to the machine? OR wanted to have a quick way to remove the door with our messing with the door alignment and/or not need any tools to take the door off?
Today is your lucky day!
I have composed 2 different version of this hinge, but let me explain how it works first.
I designed this to work so the upgrade gives you a “drilling guide” for the 8x new holes you will drill in the acrylic panels. Don’t worry it’s easy, all you need is: 4pc printed hinges, a 5mm (or 13/64) drill bit, and a drill
Meant to utilize existing hardware (or if you opt for the shoulder bolt version, all you need is the 2x M4x5MM OD x 25mm Long bolts)
Can be used upright (bolt inserts from top) or upside down (bolt threads in from bottom) the latter requires drilling out the top piece but will allow you to have a “tool free” removal of your door.
TPU tether prevents you from losing it when you take the door off.
Remove stock hinges/bolts
Set aside the 8-pairs of M5 Shoulder bolts & T-Nuts for later
Lay acrylic door & strip on a table with something under them you don’t mind a drill bit biting into (helps prevent acrylic from “breaking out” when you finish drilling through)
Place hinges in the now empty stock holes & SLOWLY drill, like as slow as you can make your drill go
Once holes are drilled, reassemble as before but put the TPU insert in like you see in the animation below, the holes are such that the bolts should only fit in one end of the TPU tether.