I can now proudly say that A3dp has a complete solution for upgrading to servos on a 3d printer. This tuning software allows you to tweak the current and position loop or set it to auto-tune. You can also view real-time feedback from the encoder and controller. Also you are able to access anti vibration loops with phase shifting so if you have large equipment that has resonance or an imbalanced shaft it can be corrected in software.
These motors are able to expose the limits in most control boards which is now pushing others to create a custom version of Klipper that increases possible step rate by many orders of magnitude. This will allow us to slowly start adding more features and higher levels of performance on top of what we can already achieve . As an example we can currently run the motors at 8192 steps per rotation “the motors technically can run whatever you want but their would be little reason to go above 16384 since that is the hardware resolution of the encoder” if we want extreme quality or 4096 if we want to go over a meter per second. At 8192 we are accurate to .00488 of a mm with a 20t pulley and .0039 with a 16t or at 4096 both pulley sizes get us under .01 compared to a .9 stepper getting us .1mm with a 20t “if we pretend that their is 0 lag and we have 0 resistance in the system ”
You may need to install net Framework 3.5 which you can press windows key then type add or remove windows features and make sure net framework 3.5 is selected .
This is a guide for printing a turnkey mount for an ElecLabs 5″ Klipper Screen, this is not a full guide for installing the mount. That being said, here is a link to the Klipper Screen documentation. Big shout out to those guys, this screens rocks.
Start by removing front Black acrylic panel with existing PanelDue and remove 4 Phillips M3 bolts, save the 4x Phillips M3 bolts for later
Make sure you have tested your Raspi Klipper Screen for functionality, if you plug in the DSI cable and nothing happens, you likely have a Type-A cable (Pins on side 1 at one end, Pins on side 2 at other end) but this screen needs a Type-B DSI cable. I simply took a normal Raspi Cam cable, clipped off the blue tag (heat gun to remove and super glue on opposite side) then took some sand paper to expose the pins on the opposite side. If that is too much work for you, just search type B DSI on the Google Machine and purchase one.
When you install the screen into this mount, side it in at an angle with the USB port nested in the cutout.
Then lineup the top mounting holes and screw in 2 of the longer M2.5 Phillips bolts provided in the kit.
Next, gently slide the partial assembly through the backside of the front black acrylic. Re-install 4x M3 Phillips bolts
Now slide the bottom piece on and align the holes and install the last two long M2.5 Phillips bolts from the kit.
Lastly, there are two holes, at an angle, that are made for M3x14mm bolts, this will securely hold the two halves together.
The 2 holes on either side of the mount are for you to design & mount your own tool/flashlight/screwdriver/etc mounts…
Finally mount the PI stand off and RaspberryPi onto the mounting studs on the back of screen & plug it in.
If you sanded your cable (or bought the correct one) then it will power up, if not nothing will happen.
Proceed with running the install commands (from above links) and you should be good to go.
Rather than charging for this before you try it, I would rather use this as an Honor System. I’m more concerned with growth than money but money is a necesarry evil for coninued development. If you found it useful and would like to see more like it, please consider donating to the designer with the “Tip the Designer” button below:
Future Projects I am considering:
Troodon Heated Chamber Mod
9mm Z Belt Conversion
Actively Heated Above Mounted Filament Drying Box
Umbilical Mounts for Troodon Cable Chain alternative
Other Top Secret Awesomeness we’re not quite ready to share yet =)