A3DP is happy to introduce our latest PiCam Mount for the Troodon!
It still mounts in the front-right corner as with the one we recommended before.
For assembly, start by plugging in the pi cable into the Pi Cam, place the cam in the red piece (as pictured above) then snap the yellow piece on. Next you will need a M3x20mm bolt to assemble the gray bottom mount to the yellow back plate. Finally, you will need a M4x12mm bolt and a 3030 hammer/ or t-nut for mounting to the front-right extrusion on your Troodon.
Please see the attached screen shot for slicer print orientation. I would suggest 0.16-0.2mm layers, ABS material for easier breakaway supports. The rear face may require some light sanding.
CAD & STL Files
Inspired by the following projects:
Front housing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4695691
Back cover: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2746186
One is if your a patron feel free to have me remote in and fix for you but otherwise just follow the pdf guide on the website https://www.advanced3dprinting.com/2021/03/12/klipper-kit-install-instructions/
but the important part is just to use the reset pins again and then teh reset button . sometimes you can get away onyl doing one or the other but it is safer to do both and make sure you do not have low level configuration checked so if their is a * in front of it then hit spacebar on it to uncheck it.
One is their is new way of defining moonraker.conf it will be in new image and i putting it here cuase i make so many images that no one is aware since the gdrive doesn’t notify so i will make post everytime for you guys.
anyway please change in your moonraker.conf file. or just dload this one
client_repo = meteyou/mainsail
client_path = ~/mainsail
[update_manager client mainsail]
This solution came about because I have yet to find a nice clean, customizable solution for storing E3D v6 style nozzles. That is a thing of the past. I would like to introduce our Nozzle Storage Box.
The intention here is that the Nozzle Insert is customizable for your application. It prints with no support in 4 pieces. We are providing all of the STL files, F3D and a STEP file for those who prefer to customize their box further.
Suggested Print Settings:
- 0.2mm Layers
- 0.4mm Nozzle
- No Supports needed
- Top & Bottom box piece print on largest face
- Trudie mount prints on the face with the 2 slots
Additional Needed Parts
- 2x M3x10+ mm bolts to secure lid to the base
I love sharing and i have been releasing alot on facebook and the gdrive but it just gets buried so i am going to release everything on patreon for now on so new patrons can see everything and dont have to search through million posts or the gdrive . I will also be cross posting on my website which your patron logins will access and unlock . I will make some content public on here and the website but most will release here first for at least 30 days so that i can support you all better instead of getting swamped like i have been . Nothing against others i just have to put you “my supporters” first and with the gantry launch my time needs to go to getting you guys going with all this new stuff thats dropping over next week . Also jake allen will now have access to post content on the website and all my patrons will have access plus as the store starts generating revenue from sales i will try to support the contributors from my patron fund and from the store. I plan on carrying 3dxtech filaments and tungsten carbide nozzles maybe even …gasp the dragon lol but onyl parts that i personally test and can feel good recommending. I literally have gone through 10 dragons as shown in the video i just posted.I destroyed a few of them and it turned out it was the dyze nozzles fault so I emailed them and if they revise the nozzle i will recommend and possibly carry it but as of now i think spool3d and 3dmaker are the go to for wc also i am waiting for a midwest tungsten nozzle to test but the 3dmaker seems the way for us and spool3d for canada and either for rest of world. Lastly we will be adding a tip the designer system for contributors on the website as designs start getting posted. I will not allow anything to be sold i haven’t printed and tested and i will be really leaning towards a free market for all my patrons with the option to tip and to rest of public they can charge what they want lol. Also all my content will be free for you guys as long as no one tries just pledging a dollar and dloading stuff then canceling which if that happens a few times ill have to set some min lifetime pledge for full access but i have had nothing but good experience from all of you .
Jake allen redrew my last version adn tehn me and him tweaked it until no end and it is really the ultimate iteration at this point. Their is 2 versions here these are meant to work with the ldo and origianl bom size bearings “14mm” i am testing the vivedino 16f front bearing version and will add that shortly
This is a quick guide to show how to fix your install, if a new update caused a version mismatch.
There are pretty standard guides, but most leave out that with input shaping and other advanced features, we have to also compile the microcode for the host controller, a raspberry pi in most cases. I may be adding a guide to use a tablet as the Klipper host in future, so that we could use an old tablet to control the printer, and just use the Duet spi bus, so we could mount a nice big tablet or old laptop, etc, onto the printer and have it complete standalone. Below is a list of commands to use for anyone feeling a little overwhelmed, but it’s much cleaner to follow this video.
- To enter a previously entered command, press ↑ on your keyboard. You can cycle between options with ↑ and ↓
- To copy text inside a PuTTY terminal, just select it.
- To paste, right click
- Open PuTTY, and connect to the raspberry pi with your IP address. (mac can use the ssh command)
- Login to your pi, default is pi and raspberry
- Enter make clean
SAM3/SAM4 (Due and Duet)
SAM4e8e (Duet Wifi/Eth)inside
- Ensure that
(USB)is selected inside
- Press Esc then Y
sudo service klipper stop, enter your password
- Copy the serial by just selecting it in the window
make flash FLASH_DEVICE=and paste your serial after the =
- Note their is a chance that flash may fail and usually this will place the board into a bootloader mode like original install does when you hit the erase pins. If this occurs please rerun ls /dev/serial/by-id/* so that you can get the correct serial and use this one repeating step 10
- Enter make clean
- Enter make menuconfig
Micro-controller Architecturepress Esc then Y
- Enter make
- Enter make flash, enter your password
- Restart the klipper service in the mainsail interface